Stephen Ratner
Collection · Amman
Jordan · One piece

Amman.

I left this bowl in the Amman airport bathroom, and loved it so much that a friend went all the way back to the street shop and bought the same one. This is the replacement.

Amman plate, gouache illustration
01

Field notes

Amman: the call to prayer on the first night, a desert trip with my friend Sam, and the bowl that almost didn't make it home.

Gouache icon of a minaret and white hillside buildings at night
Stop 01 · The first night

Within the first three hours, the call to prayer in the middle of the night - I was not expecting it. A magical place on top of the mountain, overlooking the beautiful little white buildings.

Gouache icon of a jeep in the desert
Stop 02 · The desert

I was with my friend Sam, who was there on a fellowship and spoke Arabic. We went to the desert - one of the great desert trips. He got pulled over for speeding and talked himself out of the ticket in Arabic.

Gouache icon of an airplane
Stop 03 · The airport

I left this piece in a bathroom in the Amman airport, and my friend went all the way back to the street shop and bought the same one, because I loved it so much. It's a great counter to some of my Israeli pottery - I love that it has Arabic writing, which I think is truly beautiful.

02

The pieces

01

Stoneware bowl

Rustic stoneware bowl with carved abstract designs and turquoise glaze accents.
Amman piece 1, gouache illustration
A gorgeous piece that has been on my wood bookshelf for many years.
03

My saved places

01
Hashem Restaurant
Falafel · JOD 1–5
An Amman icon on King Faisal Street serving locals, tourists, and dignitaries the same simple Jordanian street food - the falafel (crispy outside, soft inside) and the fresh smooth hummus are the orders, ideally as the big Jordanian breakfast. Budget-friendly and casual. Cash only - there's a Jordan bank ATM a minute's walk away.
02
AlQuds Restaurant
Arab restaurant · JOD 5–10
A must-do in Jordan - the place for mansaf, the national dish, and locals are proud of it. Time-honored, fast and organized service in central Amman; I came back again and again.
03
Wild Jordan House
Restaurant
Eco spot with a view over the old city to the Citadel. Come for breakfast, stay for the view.
04
Bab Alyamen Alsa'eed
★ 4.3
Yemeni in Amman that feels like Yemen - reasonable and warm.