Stephen Ratner
Collection · Barcelona
Spain · Four pieces

Barcelona.

Four pieces from six months of living in Barcelona - the best six months of my life - including a bowl and vases I made myself.

Barcelona plate, gouache illustration
01

Field notes

The route: a rented BMW through Catalonia in the fall, one night alone in a forest house, and then the rest of the semester in Barcelona.

Gouache icon of a car on a country road in autumn
Stop 01 · Catalonia in the fall

I rented a BMW and drove around Catalonia in the fall, in the countryside. Absolutely gorgeous trees - one of the most beautiful settings I've ever been in.

Gouache icon of a lone house in a forest at night
Stop 02 · The forest house

I found a lone Airbnb in the middle of a forest. Dark, quiet, no other people - I spent the night hoping I'd be fine in the morning. When I woke up and walked around the side of the house: 600 condominiums on the hillside. I was not alone at all.

Gouache icon of the Sagrada Familia
Stop 03 · Back to Barcelona

I drove back to Barcelona and spent the rest of the semester there. No better morning than waking up to explore Catalonia - meandering through the protests against the Spanish government, eating tapas everywhere you go, talking to Spanish people who are so friendly.

Gouache icon of a pottery wheel with a fresh pot
Stop 04 · The classes

I made pieces in Barcelona across different trips - one in El Born with a pottery teacher, one with another teacher near the Sagrada Familia. I was in over my head with the throw wheel, but if you finally make it to the kiln, they can come out really nice. It was just so much fun learning how to do pottery.

Gouache icon of a motor scooter
Stop 05 · The city

The corners of these streets are 45-degree angles - the old electric buses couldn't turn 90, so the city got superblocks and large walking areas. Ocean, city, and mountains in one place, which you rarely get. I would always recommend getting a little scooter to scoot through the streets.

Best six months of my life without question. One of the greatest cities in the world, Barcelona.

02

The pieces

01

Ruffled bowl Self-made

A ruffled bowl with a glossy teal glaze and a thin brown edge on the rim - made by me in Barcelona.
Barcelona ruffled bowl, gouache illustration
02

Catalan modernist ceramic

Catalan modernist-inspired ceramic with Mediterranean design elements.
Barcelona piece 1, gouache illustration
03

Cylindrical vases Self-made

Minimalist cylindrical vases with a creamy white glaze and dark teal drip accents - made by me in Barcelona.
Barcelona cylindrical vase, gouache illustrationBarcelona cylindrical vase, gouache illustrationBarcelona cylindrical vase, gouache illustrationBarcelona cylindrical vase, gouache illustrationBarcelona cylindrical vase, gouache illustration
I made these in Barcelona across different trips - one class in El Born, one near the Sagrada Familia. One I was going to give to a friend for his wedding, but I kept it: it had a beautiful little imperfection around the top that was intentional.
04

Serving tray

Minimalist rectangular serving tray in cream white with a dark linear arrow design.
Barcelona serving tray, gouache illustration
03

My saved places

01
Bormuth Tapas & Vermut
Tapas bar · €10–20 · El Born
Grab the shady terrace on Plaça Comercial - there's a breeze even at 38 degrees. Four tapas for two is the right order. Unpretentious, affordable, dog friendly; watch for pickpockets across the square.
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02
Compartir
Restaurant
Built for sharing, and the staff walks you through the whole menu - let them steer. Skip the paella and spend the table's attention on the smaller crafted plates instead. Book ahead; people arrange dinners here weeks out and it shows.
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03
El Nacional
Spanish · €20–40
Four restaurants under one roof off Passeig de Gràcia. The oyster bar at the back is the move - get the sampler platter. La Taperia works for a tapas spread: gazpacho, tomato carpaccio, lettuce hearts with anchovies.
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04
Makamaka
Health food · €10–20
Beach-bar burgers by Barceloneta - juicy and tender, with the ginger-lemon lemonade alongside. The Bean Machine and the topless burger are both solid orders. Friendly, international, quick.
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05
Sartoria Panatieri
Pizza · €20–30
Lives up to the hype. Get the grilled leeks next to whatever pizza you pick - the Margherita and Diavola both deliver. Walk-ins can luck into a table, but reserve if you can.
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06
L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele
Pizza · €10–20
The pizzas are comically large - the plate underneath is a myth. One per person is plenty. Service can drag and the room feels cold; you're here for the pizza.
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07
Surf House Barcelona
Restaurant · €10–20
Healthy spot near the beach - get the papas. Fresh food, fair prices, very friendly staff. Easy stop before or after the sand.
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08
Viblioteca
Wine and cheese bar · Gràcia
Tiny wine-and-cheese bar in Gràcia, perfect for a date. The tuna tartare, eggplant coca, cannelloni, and cheese board are all excellent. Let them pick the wines - the recommendations are the point.
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09
Monk
Cocktail bar · El Born
Paradiso's sister speakeasy, hidden behind an ordinary corner shop in the Born - half the fun is finding the door. Great playlist and a beautiful room; the drinks run a notch below the sibling.
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10
Passeig del Born
Tourist attraction
The Born's main evening artery - tapas bars, cafes, and sweet shops the whole way, thick with both locals and tourists. Go hungry and treat it as a crawl rather than a destination. Expect crowds at peak hours; that's the point.
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11
Aparthotel Mariano Cubí
4-star hotel
Apartment-style rooms with a kitchenette, a walk from the tourist core. Light sleeper? Ask for the top floor.
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12
Ohla Barcelona
5-star hotel
In the middle of everything on Via Laietana. The breakfast is worth getting up for.
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13
Almanac Barcelona
5-star hotel
The rooftop view is the thing. Breakfast at Virens is genuinely good.
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14
Majestic Hotel & Spa
5-star hotel
The landmark on Passeig de Gràcia. The breakfast spread is the detail people remember.
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15
Aiueno
★ 4.6
Catalan-Japanese fusion - fresh sushi and dumplings plus croquettes and meat from the Catalan side. The menu del dia is excellent value; even the miso soup is good.
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16
Arc Iris
Vegetarian that makes you reconsider eggplant - the set lunch is value.
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17
Bar Cañete
★ 4.6
Open kitchen, wonderful staff - incredible all around.
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18
Bar del Pla
★ 4.4
A Born favorite in a cosy, slightly quirky room on a narrow street. Get the roasted meat cannelloni, and ask the staff for menu guidance - they're genuinely good at it. It's busy - reserve, or gamble on a walk-in.
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19
Bar Restaurant Pinotxo
★ 4.4
The Boqueria counter for authentic local food - baby squid with beans.
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20
Biblioteca Gabriel García Márquez
One of the most beautiful public spaces in the city - quiet, peaceful, stunning wooden architecture. Worth an hour of calm.
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21
Billy Brunch
A brunch institution people return to morning after morning. The eggs benedict earns its reputation and the portions are huge; the pancakes get mixed marks. Expect a wait at peak hours.
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22
Billy Brunch & Park
The park-side sibling of Billy Brunch - the kind of meal that still stands out after a month of travel. Sit outside overlooking the park on a sunny afternoon. Portions are generous for the price, rare in this neighborhood.
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23
CALLA Y TAPA
Wow. Superb tapas with a slight modern touch - la bomba, Catalan bread, the squid casserole, ham and eggs. Sit outside in summer; they may send you off with cava and a chupito.
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24
Cal Pep
Counter-seat tapas bar that people queue for and come back to three times in one stay - no reservation, so budget line time. Order whatever's coming off the plancha and let the counter crew steer. A top-five meal for people who eat everywhere.
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25
Can Vilaró
Traditional Catalan with zero tourist-trap energy - the real deal, blood sausage and all, at very fair prices. Service is kind but slow; don't come in a rush. Reserve ahead or expect a wait.
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26
Carmina
Cozy and welcoming; the staff are flexible on seating.
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27
Chula Vista Raval
★ 4.4
Raval brunch find with the best michelada in Barcelona. Fun, funky Mexican - fresh food, good portions, music always on point. Good break or remote-work stop.
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28
Circles House | Coliving & Coworking
★ 4.7
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29
Doctor Green BCN
★ 4.9
Cannabis social club with an outsized reputation - the welcome and the vibe are the draw more than anything. Affordable by club standards. It's membership-based, so expect the sign-up process at the door.
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30
Doppietta - Buffet Libre Italiano
★ 4.5
Charming Italian with homemade pasta - good for a birthday buyout.
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31
Elisabets Restaurant
Rooted neighborhood Catalan cooking without Michelin prices - the homemade empanadillas de Burgos (morcilla) are the highlight. Breakfast is a steal: coffee and croissant for EUR 2.60, no English needed. It fills up; reserve or be ready to come back the next day.
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32
Galeria Maxó
Small, color-drenched local gallery near the Born - the kind of place people walk into and end up buying a framed piece. Worth a browse even if you're not buying.
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33
Garage Beer Co Poblenou - Cervesa artesana i Pizzetes
The best craft beer in Barcelona, and the Poblenou outpost is the chillest - spacious palm-shaded terrace near the beach. Big IPA selection (lighter on other styles) plus personal pizzas people rave about. Taps plus a well-stocked can fridge.
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34
Gelida
★ 4.6
No-frills Catalan home cooking - there's a line of locals for a reason.
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35
Goiko Gluten Free
★ 4.4
The whole restaurant is gluten free and you'd never know - the M30's buns taste completely normal. The mint limonada is the drink.
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36
Indian Herbs
Fresh samosas, three chutneys - the paneer kadai.
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37
La Balmesina
★ 4.6
Lives up to the hype - Neapolitan-style with fresh, high-quality ingredients. The Amatriciana pizza is sublime; finish with the tiramisu. Book a later slot - early reservations can outrun the kitchen.
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38
La Caravana
★ 4.7
A genuine Syrian kitchen in Gràcia, cooked by people from the country - falafel, hummus, the salads, all with real care. Cozy, quick, kind service even on a busy Saturday.
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39
La Crème Gràcia
★ 4.8
Gràcia hideaway that feels like home from the first minute - books, table games, art on the walls. Cozy enough to work in; good prices, good music.
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40
La Flauta | Aribau
★ 4.5
Top-three tapas of many a trip - the fresh shrimp gets singled out, plus the Spanish omelet and cod with aioli. Busy with a local-tourist mix at lunch; service stays sharp. If your server offers to choose for you, let them - it works.
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41
La Graciosa
★ 4.3
A little wine spot people dream about after - pa amb tomaquet, burrata salad with honey, the cheese and charcuterie board, and the vitello tonnato with leeks. The natural wine list is the reason to come. Bar seats work for a walk-in drink.
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42
La Malcriada Esmorzars
★ 4.5
Friendly brunch with big, healthy portions. Interesting swaps - tomatoes and black beans instead of egg and pork on the bibimbap. Get the potatoes and an iced chai.
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43
La Manual Alpargatera
The espadrille institution - people come back to Barcelona just for another pair. Service can be brisk when it's busy; know your size and don't let them talk you into 'it will stretch' if your toes say otherwise.
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44
La Mini Pepita
★ 4.5
La Pepita's little sister - easier table, same shareable tapas.
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45
La Muscleria
The parmesan mussels live up to the legend - around since 1997 and still under the radar. Tapas to start, then the mussels. The lunch menu is big value.
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46
La Pepita
Creative, beautifully plated tapas in a small room full of personality - the fried chicken and the croquettes are the orders. Book ahead: it's heaving nightly and walk-ins queue.
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47
Las Cuevas de Los Rajahs
A cave-like little bar that regulars call Barcelona's best-kept secret. Warm, dim, and different from anything else on the strip. Go late.
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48
L'Obrador
The pioneer of real bread in Barcelona - some of the best croissants in town at super decent prices. Go in the morning when the shelves are full.
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49
Lomo Alto
The T-bone is the star - perfectly charred, deep beefy flavor, and you can see the cuts before you order. Start with the beef carpaccio. Even the salad surprises.
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50
MariscCo
Fresh, well-prepared seafood off a huge menu - the oysters are excellent. Not everything listed is always available and some items run expensive. Good date spot.
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51
Mercat de la Boqueria
The famous market off La Rambla lives up to the hype for a graze - fruit, ham, seafood and pastry stalls in a beautiful historic hall. Walk through, snack at a stall or two, skip the front fruit stands (tourist pricing), and don't plan a full meal here.
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52
Mercat de Santa Caterina
The locals' alternative to La Boqueria - same ham stalls, fruit and seafood under the wavy colorful roof, a fraction of the tourist crush. The ham stalls are the favorites. Strong smells come with the territory.
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53
Mescladís del Pou
A colorful little cafe hidden in the tight alleys near Ciutadella Park - the tostadas de huevo and ginger lemonade are the orders, and the staff gives great recommendations. Seating is more charming than comfortable; that's the style and it's worth it.
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54
MUHBA Turó de la Rovira
The best panoramic view of Barcelona - worth the climb.
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55
Paco Meralgo Restaurante
★ 4.5
Good enough to visit twice to work through the menu. The octopus with pork cured meat is a must; the anchovies, squid-ink croquettes, and oxtail all deliver. Skip the patatas bravas.
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56
Paradiso
Best cocktail experience going - you enter through what looks like a refrigerator door. Sit at the bar and watch the drinks get built. Opens at 4:30; arrive before opening or expect a line.
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57
Parking Pizza | Passeig Sant Joan
★ 4.4
Warehouse-cool pizza hang - relaxed first-date energy.
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58
Patara Còctels i Tapes
A random find that turns into a favorite meal - go hungry and order a spread of tapas.
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59
Penny Banger
★ 4.5
An electric Irish-ish bar that turns into a party - marathon crews of 15 get adopted for the night. Come for a perfectly poured Guinness; the margaritas and cocktails hold their own too. Friendly bartenders, chill-until-it-isn't vibe.
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60
Peu del Funicular
The funicular up the hill toward Tibidabo - short, fun, and practical, with views and hiking at the top. On the train to Peu del Funicular, stay in the middle-to-back cars - not all cars fit the small station platform. Check seasonal closures in August.
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61
Pipa Club
★ 4.3
A hidden cocktail club tucked off Plaça Reial - ring the bell and escape the tourist noise downstairs. Cool, quirky decor and good vibes. Note it opens late (listings say 22:00); don't show up early.
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62
PUR Restaurant
A high-quality dining room worth coming back to again and again - walk-ins can still luck into a table. Most dishes justify the price; a few run expensive, so order toward the kitchen's strengths.
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63
Quimet & Quimet
★ 4.6
Standing-room-only tapas counter in Poble-sec and a candidate for best meal in Spain - everything is built from tins and a hot plancha behind the bar. Get the jerked beef; eating at the counter watching the prep is half the fun. Arrive early or expect a 10-15 minute line outside.
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64
Restaurant Casa Trampa
Home-style Catalan up by Vallvidrera from a classically trained chef - the cannelloni and the meatballs are the standouts. Busy at lunch with locals, always a good sign. Traditional cooking; picky eaters will still find something.
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65
Restaurant Ciurana
★ 3.7
The seafood paella is incredible - order it and let it be the meal.
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66
Restaurant Joanet
Reliable tapas on a shady, tree-lined square - the croquette assortment and the squid with kimchi mayo are the picks, plus a burrata and iberico salad. Take an outside table. Management has changed and it has lost some charm, though the food is still good.
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67
Restaurant Ugarit - Sants
★ 4.4
Syrian welcome in Sants - mix veg and non-veg platters.
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68
Restaurant xinès Yue Lai
★ 4.4
Busy, crowded Chinese near the center - tables packed tight. The set lunch is the play: pork gyozas and lemon chicken with rice. Skip it if you want elbow room.
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69
Robata
★ 4.6
Fresh sushi and robata grill on Enric Granados - chill vibe.
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70
Sala Apolo
Barcelona's beloved mid-size concert hall - excellent sightlines everywhere, and the upper level gives a perfect stage view. Plenty of bars inside so drinks are easy. Door security is brusque and Spanish-first; roll with it.
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71
Sindur Indian Cuisine Delivery
★ 4.3
Top Indian in Barcelona - ask for it actually spicy.
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72
Sips
The bar voted the world's best - creative cocktails in a tiny room, some seatings behind a beaded wall for 12 guests. Reserve ahead; walk-ins wait up to an hour, though solo at opening can slip in within 20 minutes.
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73
Spicy Soul Hot Pot
Mix your own sauce at the bar - they mean it when they say spicy.
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74
Sushiko | Francesc Macià
★ 4.1
€19.90 all-you-can-eat sushi - drink required, dessert not included. Quality well above the other all-you-can-eat options and the portions are fair. A good deal, not a destination.
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75
Syra Coffee - Born
Quality beans - chocolate and hazelnut, not too acidic - on serious machines. Lovely Born street for a wander after.
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76
Syra Coffee - Diputació
The dark roast actually wakes you up. A specialty cafe out of Andalusia, a stone's throw from Eixample.
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77
Tapeo
Good enough to eat at twice in one week. Creative, extensive tapas menu. Lunch is easier to get into; dinner can mean a 30-minute wait.
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78
The Original Old Fashioned - Cocktail House
★ 4.6
Order the tiramisu old fashioned - the standout cocktail.
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79
Tibidabo Amusement Park
★ 4.4
A vintage amusement park and a church sharing the top of Barcelona's mountain, with views over the whole city. A direct bus to the funicular makes it easy. Worth it for the rides, the picnic areas and the views alone.
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80
Trafalgar Pizza Club
Legit Neapolitan - perfectly charred crust, fresh ingredients - in one of the coolest rooms in the city. Eat in; the pizzas soak in a takeout box.
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81
TWO SCHMUCKS
A dive-bar-meets-serious-cocktail-lounge that earns its favorite-bar-in-Barcelona reputation. Hip hop on vinyl, laid-back service, 10/10 cocktails. Quiet early in the week - sit at the bar and talk to the bartenders.
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82
UGARIT Plaça Joanic
Syrian gem right off the Joanic train - platters, dips, and salads in big portions, so order carefully. Authentic, warm, and the owner is a sweetheart.
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83
Vallvidrera Superior
The funicular up to Vallvidrera - a quick, smooth one-stop ride. Combine it with the bus to Tibidabo's church for the views, or walk down from Tibidabo (an easy 20-minute downhill stroll) and take the funicular plus S2 train back toward Gracia.
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Andorra
84
Mirador Roc Del Quer | Canillo
★ 4.4
A viewing platform in Andorra that hangs over the valley at 1,920m - incredible views if heights don't scare you. It's a paid ticket and a short hike from the carpark; not suited to limited mobility. Bring something warm even on sunny days.
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