Buenos Aires.

Book weeks out and put the deposit down - the steak needs nothing on it.

Don Julio's sibling in Palermo, and arguably better - the milanesa earns its reputation (moist, beautifully rendered marbling; use the lemon on half so you get bites with and without acidity). Impeccable, detail-oriented service. Order the signatures.

Modern, spotless rooms right in the center, a three-minute walk to the station that runs straight to San Telmo. Solo travelers get proper single rooms at a fair price, and staff go out of their way to help. Rooms run small - fine as a base, not for spreading out.

The steak that welcomes you to Buenos Aires - one of the best I've ever tasted, paired with an incredible Malbec. Big portions, no rushing, and the staff treat you like longtime guests.