Stephen Ratner
Collection · Cartagena
Colombia · One piece

Cartagena.

Cartagena with two friends from law school - we ate like dogs, had Cuban cigars, and stayed in one hotel room. This colorful piece came home.

Cartagena plate, gouache illustration
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Field notes

A beautiful seaside city. I went with two friends from law school.

Gouache icon of colorful colonial buildings with balconies
Stop 01 · The old city

The old city, colorful and gorgeous. Walk right along the ocean where people used to come from Europe and do trades.

Gouache icon of a Cuban cigar on an ashtray
Stop 02 · The friends

Cuban cigars, talks about how much we wanted to visit Medellin, and getting lost in taxi cabs thinking we were one wrong turn away from being kidnapped. We stayed in one hotel room.

Gouache icon of a whole grilled fish on a plate
Stop 03 · The fish

The food is so delicious - boy did we have some good fish together. I don't get to see those guys very much anymore now that we have families.

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The piece

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Folk art ceramic

Colombian folk art ceramic in vibrant tropical colors.
Cartagena piece 1, gouache illustration
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My saved places

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Alquimico
Rooftop bar · COP 40–140K
Ranked #11 on the World's 50 Best Bars list and it mostly earns the hype - three floors inside the walled city, excellent cocktails, and bartenders who go out of their way. One caveat: many drinks are batch pre-made rather than mixed fresh to order, which disappoints at these prices.
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ANANDÁ HOTEL BOUTIQUE
★ 4.6
A calm, stylish hideaway inside the walled city: colonial windows, beamed ceilings, marble baths, tropical flowers at the front desk. Soundproof doors keep the lively courtyard out when you want quiet, breakfast is a standout, and there are two pools (one rooftop) plus a bar and restaurant that still feel cozy.
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Juan Del Mar Restaurante
★ 4.4
So good we came back two days later - outstanding food, beautiful setting, and a live band that elevates everything. We walked in without a reservation and they accommodated us easily.