Stephen Ratner
Collection · Fez
Morocco · One piece

Fez.

Five minutes into the old city, I watched a chicken get its head chopped off. I left with great pottery.

Fez plate, gouache illustration
01

Field notes

Morocco was one of my favorite trips I have ever done. It started in Fez.

Gouache icon of a narrow old medina alleyway
Stop 01 · The old city

Within five minutes of getting into the old city, I saw a chicken get its head chopped off.

Gouache icon of an old riad door
Stop 02 · The rain

I ducked into an alleyway riad and watched the beautiful rain come down, just so excited to be in this old-world city.

Gouache icon of a ceramics stall at a street fair
Stop 03 · The pottery

I left with some great pottery - including from a Jewish woman selling pottery there.

02

The piece

01

Sgraffito vase

Pink and sage green vase with sgraffito-style geometric and floral patterns.
Fez sgraffito vase, gouache illustration
03

My saved places

01
Chez Thami
Moroccan · MAD 50–100
Cheap, fast, right on the main drag. Get the chicken skewers and a seat facing the medina.
02
Dar Hatim
Moroccan · MAD 200–350
Family-style prix fixe in someone's home. Slow-cooked lamb tagine, and Mama Karima runs the room.
03
Dar Roumana
4-star hotel
You can come just for dinner even if you're not staying. Pricey for Fes, worth it.
04
Riad Soultana
4-star hotel
Near the blue gate - follow the medina signs and ask for Aziza.
Chefchaouen
05
Hôtel Parador