Havana.

A top-three local restaurant in Havana - the swordfish is phenomenal, and the rice and beans too. English-speaking staff, good vibes inside and out, cool DJ upstairs. Book ahead.

The official home of the best white sangria I've ever had. Good enough to eat at multiple times in one trip - not the cheapest, but the quality justifies it. Lively but relaxed, with music.

The best brunch in Havana - they bake their own sourdough, and the sandwiches, focaccia, and pastries are all delicious at very fair prices. Serious coffee too; vegan-friendly.

The Cuban Picasso's tiled wonderland. Buy straight from the local art vendors just outside - it supports them directly. Easy add-on to the airport run. Ignore the pay-to-pee setup.

A lovely little old-Havana perfume museum and shop with pleasant staff. If you buy, carry the bottles upright - the caps leak, and the scent fades fast.

Feels like being welcomed into a beautifully held home - elegant, soulful rooms with thoughtful historic details. Walkable to much of old Havana, good breakfast included, excellent for the price.

Don't be put off by the abandoned-looking stairwell - third floor up is a rooftop with fantastic views. Start at the rooftop bar, then dinner on the terrace. The tuna is outstanding; amazing wine list.

Come for the Buena Vista Social Club show - a great night of music and dancing with a vibrant, historic atmosphere. Skip the dinner package: the food is an overpriced tourist trap (eat at Vistamar instead). If you do the package, the canchancharas are the included drink to order.

A stunning collection of modern Cuban art pottery (1950 to today) on the top floor of a 1728 two-story house, with a ceramics shop and temporary exhibitions below. Quiet and genuinely moving. Expect a staff member to attach themselves as a guide for a tip - some find it helpful, others over-watchful.

A tiny spot at the south end of the old town - the caldero de mariscos (seafood stew) is the famous order, with an amazing fresh broth; the octopus carpaccio and the tacos get raves too, plus the house mojito. One caution: some find prices higher than comparable places nearby.

First-dinner-in-Havana material and a trip highlight for many - a beautiful courtyard with a live band playing through the meal. Order the picadillo, the chicken fajitas, or the tender octopus in garlic, and finish with the flan. It's hidden at the END of the alley - don't be deterred by the walk (or by friendly locals steering you past the government restaurants to the door).

A comfortable hall by a beautiful park, run for parties and meetings - the waiters are the standout: attentive, polite, and they run the room. Good music, good food, reliably recommended for group events.

Way beyond Cuba standards - the Caesar is mixed at the table and the carbonara comes out of a cheese wheel, also tableside. The ceviche and shrimp tacos are great too.

The Obama paladar (March 2016), and it earns the fame - calm, authentic ambience, good music in the main room. Good enough for three dinners in five days.

The Viñales day-trip operator. Mixed bag: superb guides when it's good (ask for Dagoberto), but confirm the stops before you pay - tours have skipped advertised sights and the minivan runs cramped.

The romantic dinner in Havana - over the water in Miramar, English-speaking staff, genuinely invested service. The lamb stew is better than any I've had. Also a perfect brunch spot.