Key West.

Worth the wait on the harbor - food comes fast once you're seated, with ocean views. Great base between the water attractions and the hotels. Stick to the seafood staples.

The lobster roll is the real thing - no mayo, just unadulterated lobster. The coconut fried shrimp and the mojito (fresh mint, not too sweet) round it out. Handy before sunset at Mallory Square.

Fresh fish cooked your way - ask the staff what's best that day; the tacos and the hogfish are the picks. Covered outdoor seating with fans. The kitchen has off days, so order the simple fresh stuff.

Maybe the best bar in the Keys - phenomenal cocktails with fresh herbs, dark and elegant. Play bar dice with your bartender; Evelyn mixes a great one and knows her Key West trivia.

The old Key West bar that still works for a living - first drink here was in the mid-80s and it hasn't lost it. Live music, a pool table, and solid piña coladas.

Sit by the water and watch tarpon, sharks, and groupers swim past. The lobster egg roll is the must-order; conch ceviche and the Old Bay shrimp cocktail back it up. They'll cook your catch, and there's shuffleboard.

The breakfast move in Key West - open at 6:30, generous plates, reasonable for KW. Get the 2-2-2 or the Key Lime French toast. A+ diner across the board.

A Key West multi-level party bar - live music downstairs (sidewalk tables if you want to smoke a cigar with your bourbon) and an open-air dance floor upstairs where the DJ takes requests. Cheap drinks, no drafts (domestics run $6). Friendly bartenders on the upper deck.

The Hemingway institution - touristy and loud, and worth doing once for exactly that. Have the sloppy joe and a beer for the legend of it; the sandwich itself is average-to-good. There's live music even at 10:30 AM, and lunch draws a crowd so service takes its time.

The sunset spot on the boardwalk - arrive 30-60 minutes before sunset for a good table along the rail, and stay for the live music and the tiki-bar drinks. Boats and sailboats cross the view as the sun drops. Food is good if pricey; you're paying for the seat.

The best-positioned tiki bar on the pier for sunset - strong well-made drinks at reasonable prices and live guitar. No AC and it runs hot, so dress for it. Service can vanish when it's slammed; if you can't flag anyone, don't take it personally.

A no-frills old Key West bar on Duval - strong drinks, live music, and bartenders who treat you how you treat them. Grab a beer and sit by the huge open shutters to people-watch the Duval crazies. The balcony opens at 1pm; floor two has games, floor three is clubbier.

Hit-or-miss kitchen right by the water - stick to the shrimp (the Chiller is super fresh) and the mussels. Skip the fish and chips. Bar seats open up when tables are slammed.

A solid patio spot where the food over-delivers - the lobster and scallops are the standouts, the happy hour appetizers are worth planning around, and the key lime pie converted a self-described non-key-lime-pie person. Servers like Daniel M and Julio make the night.

Pure Key West - get the mojo pork skewers.

Beachside dining that was more than one table's favorite meal of the weekend - the scallops with risotto are a 10/10 order, and the lobster-and-Brie grilled cheese with a side of aioli is a must. Save room for key lime pie. Service runs on island time; don't be in a hurry.

A must in the Keys, rain or shine - fresh bagels and homemade bagel chips from a family-run shop. A lifesaver if you're gluten-free: celiac-safe, and they go out of their way to keep it that way.

A beautiful, quiet beach park in Islamorada - clean, out of the way, palapas for shade, plus a library, fields, and walking paths. Perfect family afternoon. Bring bug spray.

The post-kayak dinner - chill island-time vibes, live music, speedy friendly service. The fried mahi is cooked perfectly; key lime pie (not the frozen version) and the chocolate cake for dessert.

Superb all around on the waterfront - the burrata and tuna to start, then the lamb chops or the prime rib with gnocchi. They welcomed our walk-in in Everglades-casual attire graciously.

A tiny store packed with everything - picnic food, hotel snacks, and the Key Lime Pie Lady's pies, which are the real thing. One of the most unexpectedly fun stops in Islamorada.