Kraków.

Kazimierz classic - didn't book and got a table outside, with Jewish music drifting from inside. The matzo ball soup and the potato latkes are the light-lunch order.

Kazimierz café in a library setting - the finjan coffee with cardamom.

Middle-eastern in the most beautiful walled courtyard under an old factory - one of our best meals in Krakow. Get the mezze set with hummus and baba ghanoush.

A local friend's milk-bar pick - authentic, full of locals. The meat pierogi are so tasty I went back the next day; the beef broth with noodles is great too.

A meaningful, well-presented museum of Krakow's Jewish history - emotional at times, but important. Easy to follow and worth experiencing.

Go for the unique Kazimierz atmosphere more than the food - it's expensive for what the kitchen delivers.