Stephen Ratner

Collection · Marrakech

Morocco · One piece

Marrakech.

Morocco was one of my favorite trips I've ever done. This tile came home from Marrakech.

Marrakech plate, gouache illustration

The Marrakech recommendations guide →

01

Field notes

Morocco was one of my favorite trips I have ever done. The route: Fez, the train, Marrakech, Chefchaouen, the Sahara.

Stop 01 · Fez

Five minutes into the old city I watched a chicken get its head chopped off. I ducked into an alleyway riad and watched the rain come down, just so excited to be in this old-world city. I left with great pottery.

Stop 02 · The train

I took the train up to Marrakech alone.

Stop 03 · Marrakech

Terracotta pieces from a guy in the medina, plus a rug. Every mosque I saw was beautiful - the wood, the ceramic, the tiles.

Stop 04 · Chefchaouen

I hired a guide to take me up to the blue pearl. Took pictures, met people, walked around. A beautiful blue city.

Stop 05 · The Sahara

I carried the pottery and the rug through the desert on a camel, then felt too bad to ride it back, so a guy from the desert drove me in his pickup. The Bedouins took me in for lunch because I was the only one there. Later a kid named Osama took me around the dunes in a four-wheeler, middle of absolutely nowhere. Dinner in the desert, gorgeous.

I loved Morocco. Magical trip.

02

The piece

01

Geometric star tile

Moroccan decorative tile with Islamic geometric star patterns in blue and terracotta.

Marrakech piece 1, gouache illustration

Marrakech piece 2, gouache illustration

Marrakech piece 3, gouache illustration

Marrakech piece 4, gouache illustration

The Morocco trip is still one of my favorites. Five minutes into the Fez old city I watched a chicken get its head chopped off. Then the train up to Marrakech alone, a hired guide to Chefchaouen, and the Sahara - the Bedouins took me in for lunch because I was the only one there. I carried the pottery and a rug through the desert on a camel.

03

My saved places

Moroccan · MAD 500+

Lovely room tucked in the medina - book the terrace and take the three flights up. The harira to start, and split a pastilla. They sing and bring pastries for birthdays.

Moroccan · MAD 150–400

One of the oldest houses in the medina, and half the fun is finding the door. The beef tajine was at the highest level we've tried; super calm atmosphere.

La Cantine des Gazelles

Our best meal in Marrakesh - super homecooked food in a fun, colorful room near the square. You get a smoothie and olives on arrival, and the prices make no sense for the quality.

Restaurant · MAD 150–250

Walk past the ground floor and go straight up to the rooftop for the sunset view. The chicken tajine and the moussaka are the orders - it exceeded my expectations.

Moroccan · MAD 500+

Lebanese-Moroccan in Gueliz - full of flavor and beautifully presented, with good portions. The Made in Marrakech cocktail is refreshing, and the live show genuinely elevates the evening.

The best pastilla I've had, and the lamb with quince tagine is exceptional. Relaxing by the fountain in a quiet room away from the medina crush. Friendly, lovely service.

Cultural landmark

A bustling square that hits all five senses - food stalls, music circles, juice stands, games, alive until 1 a.m. At night it becomes one giant open-air grill. Harira soup for a few dirham.

Riad Tizwa Marrakech

Seven rooms in Dar el Bacha, five minutes inside the medina once you know the way. Hassan and team run it like a friend's home - airport pickup arranged, mint tea on arrival, cooking lessons organized. Simple rooms, a terrace restaurant, and a ground floor for chilling. Solo travelers call it a home from home.

Les Orangers d'Alilia

A small riad down in the Kasbah, quieter than the northern medina and about 20 minutes' walk from the center - far enough from the hustle. Stunning rooms, breakfast served in a beautiful courtyard (it gets specific praise), and a rooftop terrace. Staff bend to your needs; groups sometimes get the whole place to themselves.

Marrakech

Do the cooking class with Chef Mohammed - a multi-sensory journey through Moroccan dishes and the perfect end to a Morocco trip. Otherwise the harira soup is the order (the lamb tagine is tasty too). Dinner often comes with live local musicians - sit away from the stage if you want quiet.

The desert route

A desert-edge auberge and campsite that's pure magic - the desert is right next door. Ibrahim (English-speaking) arranges buggy tours and sunset camel rides; the overnight camel trek has well-cared-for camels and great guides. Clean facilities, campfire at night, and the staff (Ammar especially) treat guests exceptionally well.

Hôtel Bougafer