Paris.

A hidden rooftop right beside the Moulin Rouge windmill - no sign, up some stairs off the alley. Spacious casual seating, really good cocktails, and not the tourist trap you'd expect. Good enough to go both nights of a two-night trip.

Classic French three-course at a fair price, and it serves at odd hours when traditional spots are closed (2-7 pm). Lively, bustling, fresh. Expect a line - and if one dinner misses, give it another shot.

The duck leg is phenomenal and the French onion soup holds its own. Quieter than the Rue de Rivoli hustle - one of the best cafes before or after the Louvre. Ask for Laurent.

The portions are huge - know that first. The côte de boeuf is a must-order, the famous chicken earns it, and the duck confit is the best I've come across. A decade-long highlight of every Paris trip.

The post-Notre-Dame stop, right opposite the cathedral. Friendly, knowledgeable service and creative bistronomic cooking. Portions run small, so order accordingly.

Go for the gigs, not the venue - expensive drinks, rough toilets, and they'll tell you the music starts earlier than it does. When the right band plays, none of that matters.

A last-night-in-Paris bistro - the pea and spinach risotto is the order, and the steak tartare and croque monsieur deliver too. Great fun atmosphere, warm service. Stick to the classics.

A reclaimed village in the 14th - bar, concerts, galleries, and an upside-down-car ping-pong table. A little oasis of calm that feels like Berlin. Easy to spend a whole afternoon.

Maybe the best croissant in Paris - super buttery, airy, delicate crumb with a slight crisp. The classics are the move; the filled croissants (almond, pistachio) are skippable.

A Paris cocktail bar that lives up to the hype on vibe - good enough to go at 2am and come back the next day. Ask for Leo; he's the highlight and one of a kind. Honest note: the drinks themselves run a half-step behind the atmosphere.

The 1628 covered market - graze the stalls, seating follows your food.

A quiet, friendly fifth-arrondissement spot with cared-for food - the burrata with tomato and pistou is excellent. One caution: watch the bill at the bar - overcharging complaints come up too often.

Awesome pizza and fast, cheerful service - orders out in minutes even packed on a PSG win night. Surprisingly family-friendly for Pigalle; the layout handles kids and prams.