Rome.

Extraordinary and oddly skipped by most itineraries - it's actually the Pope's basilica, and it inspired the deepest awe of our whole Italy trip. Don't skip it.

Sardinian in Rome - the fish quality justifies the price.

Rome's entry on the 50 Best Bars list and it lives up to it - we tried more than 10 cocktails, all creative and well made. Arrive early and watch the room shift into service mode.

Near the Vatican and worth the wait - we had a gelato outside while it opened. The cacio e pepe was so good we went back the next day and ordered the exact same thing. Tables get taped with names, so claim one.

A local friend sent us - homemade cooking, refined. Her cacio e pepe.

My favorite walk in Rome - Hadrian's bridge to the castle.

Maybe the best pizza I've ever had - we came for the drinks and the pizza stole the show. The dry marinara, the salsiccia e friarielli - top-notch ingredients. Vibrant room, great music.

The Duomo view is the draw - I had a great breakfast on the terrace at 9:40 on a Tuesday and was seated right away. Go for breakfast rather than cocktails.

Top-tier cicchetti at 2.5 euros a piece - wide variety, and the marinated onions, shrimp, and octopus taste great. It gets crowded; be ready to take away.

Quick Naples pizza right by the port - busy but no wait, fast and friendly. My favorite gluten-free pizza in Naples out of four tried; we came back 2-3 times in one trip. The house wine is delicious.

Cosy, traditional café with locals popping in - cute street tables.