Rome.

Extraordinary and oddly skipped by most itineraries - it's actually the Pope's basilica, and one of Rome's most awe-inspiring stops. Don't skip it.

Sardinian in Rome - the fish quality justifies the price.

Rome's entry on the 50 Best Bars list and it lives up to it - creative, well-made cocktails. Arrive early and watch the room shift into service mode.

Near the Vatican and worth the wait - get a gelato outside while it opens. The cacio e pepe is the order. Tables get taped with names, so claim one.

Homemade cooking, refined. The cacio e pepe.

One of Rome's best walks - Hadrian's bridge to the castle.

Maybe the best pizza in town - come for the drinks and the pizza steals the show. The dry marinara, the salsiccia e friarielli - top-notch ingredients. Vibrant room, great music.

The Duomo view is the draw - breakfast on the terrace is easy to get a seat for. Go for breakfast rather than cocktails.

Top-tier cicchetti at 2.5 euros a piece - wide variety, and the marinated onions, shrimp, and octopus taste great. It gets crowded; be ready to take away.

Quick Naples pizza right by the port - busy but no wait, fast and friendly. The house wine is delicious.

Cosy, traditional café with locals popping in - cute street tables.