Stephen Ratner
Africa · Morocco · Marrakech
Morocco

Marrakech

One of my favorite trips I've ever done: Fez, the train up alone, Marrakech, the blue city, the Sahara. The story first, then the tile, then the places I saved.

9Saved places
1Piece
4Riads
01

Field notes

Morocco was one of my favorite trips I have ever done. The route: Fez, the train, Marrakech, Chefchaouen, the Sahara.

Gouache icon of a Fez tannery vat
Stop 01 · Fez

Five minutes into the old city I watched a chicken get its head chopped off. I ducked into an alleyway riad and watched the rain come down, just so excited to be in this old-world city. I left with great pottery.

Gouache icon of a passenger train
Stop 02 · The train

I took the train up to Marrakech alone.

Gouache icon of a mosque minaret
Stop 03 · Marrakech

Terracotta pieces from a guy in the medina, plus a rug. Every mosque I saw was beautiful - the wood, the ceramic, the tiles.

Gouache icon of a blue Chefchaouen doorway
Stop 04 · Chefchaouen

I hired a guide to take me up to the blue pearl. Took pictures, met people, walked around. A beautiful blue city.

Gouache icon of a camel carrying pottery and a rug
Stop 05 · The Sahara

I carried the pottery and the rug through the desert on a camel, then felt too bad to ride it back, so a guy from the desert drove me in his pickup. The Bedouins took me in for lunch because I was the only one there. Later a kid named Osama took me around the dunes in a four-wheeler, middle of absolutely nowhere. Dinner in the desert, gorgeous.

I loved Morocco. Magical trip.

02

What came home

Pastel plate of the geometric star tile
Marrakech, Morocco

Geometric star tile

Moroccan decorative tile with Islamic geometric star patterns in blue and terracotta.

The Marrakech pottery page →

03

My saved places

01
Dar Zellij
Moroccan · MAD 500+
Lovely room tucked in the medina - book the terrace and take the three flights up. The harira to start, and split a pastilla. They sing and bring pastries for birthdays.
02
Dar Cherifa
Moroccan · MAD 150–400
One of the oldest houses in the medina, and half the fun is finding the door. The beef tajine was at the highest level we've tried; super calm atmosphere.
03
La Cantine des Gazelles
Moroccan
Our best meal in Marrakesh - super homecooked food in a fun, colorful room near the square. You get a smoothie and olives on arrival, and the prices make no sense for the quality.
04
Kui-Zin
Restaurant · MAD 150–250
Walk past the ground floor and go straight up to the rooftop for the sunset view. The chicken tajine and the moussaka are the orders - it exceeded my expectations.
05
Azar
Moroccan · MAD 500+
Lebanese-Moroccan in Gueliz - full of flavor and beautifully presented, with good portions. The Made in Marrakech cocktail is refreshing, and the live show genuinely elevates the evening.
06
Libzar
Moroccan
The best pastilla I've had, and the lamb with quince tagine is exceptional. Relaxing by the fountain in a quiet room away from the medina crush. Friendly, lovely service.
07
Jemaa el-Fnaa
Cultural landmark
A bustling square that hits all five senses - food stalls, music circles, juice stands, games, alive until 1 a.m. At night it becomes one giant open-air grill. Harira soup for a few dirham.
08
Riad Tizwa Marrakech
4-star hotel
Seven rooms in Dar el Bacha, five minutes inside the medina once you know the way. Hassan and team run it like a friend's home - airport pickup arranged, mint tea on arrival, cooking lessons organized. Simple rooms, a terrace restaurant, and a ground floor for chilling. Solo travelers call it a home from home.
09
Les Orangers d’Alilia
4-star hotel
A small riad down in the Kasbah, quieter than the northern medina and about 20 minutes' walk from the center - far enough from the hustle. Stunning rooms, breakfast served in a beautiful courtyard (it gets specific praise), and a rooftop terrace. Staff bend to your needs; groups sometimes get the whole place to themselves.
Marrakech
10
Cafe Clock
Do the cooking class with Chef Mohammed - a multi-sensory journey through Moroccan dishes and the perfect end to a Morocco trip. Otherwise the harira soup is the order (the lamb tagine is tasty too). Dinner often comes with live local musicians - sit away from the stage if you want quiet.
The desert route
11
Auberge Sahara
A desert-edge auberge and campsite that's pure magic - the desert is right next door. Ibrahim (English-speaking) arranges buggy tours and sunset camel rides; the overnight camel trek has well-cared-for camels and great guides. Clean facilities, campfire at night, and the staff (Ammar especially) treat guests exceptionally well.
12
Hôtel Bougafer