Region

Africa

Maghreb medinas, pottery cooperatives, and the long wandering days that the old cities reward. Seven years, five visits, a shelf of pots.

Cities

Morocco

Fes

The medina that refuses to be hurried. Seven years, five visits, a shelf of pots and a growing vocabulary in Darija. The first city that taught me that getting lost is the point.

Morocco

Marrakech

The tannery light, a working rec list, and two small pots from near Dar Si Saïd. Djemaa el-Fna at dusk — the square that is a city, and a country, and a show.

Entries

Pottery

Chickens, Camels, and Ceramics: A Solo Trip Through Morocco

Within five minutes of entering Fes's old city, I watched a chicken get its head chopped off. A man in a bloodstained apron held the bird by its feet, made one clean motion with a knife, and tossed the body into a pile.

February 2026

Travel Recs

Fes

A breathtaking riad restaurant in the heart of the medina with candlelit courtyards and exquisite Moroccan cuisine. The b'stilla is delicate and aromatic, and every course is a work of art. Reserve…

February 2026

Travel Recs

Marrakech

A stunning riad restaurant serving refined Moroccan cuisine in a candlelit courtyard. The pastilla is flaky and aromatic, and the lamb tagine melts off the bone. Book for dinner and stay for the at…

February 2026